Fes to Merzouga: Planning a Sahara Desert Trip from Fes

Sleeping under the stars at the foot of the great Erg Chebbi dunes is a dream for many travellers to Morocco. Fes is one of the best starting points: the road crosses the Middle Atlas, its cedar forests and high plateaus, before dropping down to the palm groves of the Tafilalet and the desert. Here is how to plan the trip, how much time to allow and what awaits you. For shorter excursions, see day trips from Fes.

Why head to the desert from Fes

From Marrakech, the road to Merzouga is longer. From Fes, you reach the dunes in a day’s drive, with scenery that changes every hour. Many travellers build their trip this way: fly into Fes, spend a few days in the medina, then cross to the desert and arrive in Marrakech from the south. It is the backbone of our 10-day Morocco itinerary.

The road from Fes to Merzouga

Allow about 470 kilometres and seven to nine hours on the road with stops. The main stages:

• Ifrane, the little alpine-style town of the Middle Atlas;
• the Azrou cedar forest, where you often spot Barbary macaques;
• Midelt, at the foot of the High Atlas, on an arid high plateau;
• the Ziz gorges, spectacular, followed by the long Ziz palm grove;
• Erfoud and Rissani, gateways to the desert, known for their fossils and market;
• Merzouga, at the foot of the Erg Chebbi dunes, which rise in places to more than 150 metres.

How many days do you need?

• Two days and one night (round trip from Fes): doable, but a lot of driving for a single night in the desert.
• Three days and two nights, from Fes to Marrakech: the most popular option, with one night in the desert and one in the Dades gorge, before reaching Marrakech via Ouarzazate and Ait Ben Haddou.
• Three days returning to Fes: two nights around Merzouga, to enjoy more of the dunes, villages and oases.
• Four days or more: to add the Todra gorge and the Dades valley and take your time.

A classic three-day tour from Fes to Marrakech

• Day 1: leave Fes in the morning, cross the Middle Atlas via Ifrane and Azrou, lunch in Midelt, the Ziz gorges, arrival in Merzouga in the late afternoon. Camel ride at sunset to the camp, dinner and a night under canvas.
• Day 2: sunrise over the dunes, camel ride back, breakfast, then drive to Tinghir and the Todra gorge, and a night in the Dades valley.
• Day 3: the road of the kasbahs, Ouarzazate, Ait Ben Haddou, then over the Tizi n’Tichka pass to arrive in Marrakech in the evening.

A night in the desert

You usually reach the camp by camel, in one to two hours, just as the sun turns the dunes orange and pink. 4x4 transfers are also available if you prefer. Camps range from simple bivouacs with Berber tents and shared bathrooms to upmarket camps with a private bathroom in every tent. In the evening there is a tajine dinner, music around the fire and a sky of rare clarity; in the morning, sunrise over the dunes is well worth the early alarm.

When to go to the desert

The best time is from October to April. In spring and autumn days are mild and nights pleasant. In winter days remain lovely but nights are cold, sometimes below freezing; see Fes in winter. In summer temperatures often exceed 40 °C (104 °F): the desert is still possible, but you need to travel early and late. More detail in the best time to visit Fes.

Private tour, shared tour or rental car?

• A private tour with a driver is the most comfortable: you choose the pace, the stops and the standard of camp.
• A shared tour, in a minibus with other travellers, is cheaper, with a fixed programme.
• A rental car is possible on roads in good condition; you leave the vehicle in Merzouga to reach the camp.

What to pack

• A cheche (desert scarf) or large scarf against sun and sand.
• Sunglasses, sunscreen and lip balm.
• A warm layer for the night, even in spring.
• A head torch.
• A small overnight bag for the camp: big suitcases stay in the vehicle.
• Cash for tips and small purchases.

Before and after the desert: Fes as your base

Many of our guests spend two or three nights in Fes before heading to the desert. It is the chance to discover the medina well rested, then leave early in the morning from the medina gate. If you are coming back to Fes after the desert, ask us whether you can leave some of your luggage at the riad. To compare the two big cities on your route, read Fes or Marrakech; for a honeymoon between imperial city and dunes, see our romantic getaway in Fes.

Planning the desert from La Petite Maison

We work with trusted drivers for excursions around Fes, and we are happy to advise you on organising a tour to Merzouga, leaving from Rcif square, five minutes from the riad. Tell us your dates, your preferred pace and the style of camp you are after. In the meantime, browse our rooms for your nights in Fes and write to us to plan your tour. For the rest of your stay, our selection of things to do in Fes awaits.