Fes Medina Guide: History, Neighbourhoods and Finding Your Way

The Fes el-Bali medina is impressive before you even enter it: an ocean of white and ochre rooftops filling a valley, bristling with minarets, without a single car. Inside, some nine thousand lanes cross, climb, drop and sometimes end in a dead end. You will get lost, inevitably, but you can also find your way perfectly well once you understand its logic. This is the guide we would like to hand every guest on arrival. For the list of sights, see our selection of things to do in Fes.

A little history

Fes was founded in 789 by Idris I on the right bank of the Fes river, then expanded from 809 by his son Idris II on the left bank. For a long time two towns faced each other: the Andalusian bank, settled by refugees from Córdoba, and the Kairouan bank, where Al-Quaraouiyine was founded in 859. United in the eleventh century, they form Fes el-Bali, “Old Fes”, enclosed by walls. The city’s golden age came under the Marinids in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, who built the finest madrasas. Listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1981, it is considered one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world.

Understanding the layout

The medina covers both slopes of a valley. Remember one simple rule: the heart of the city is at the bottom. Al-Quaraouiyine, the Al-Attarine Madrasa, Seffarine square and the tanneries lie at the bottom of the valley; the gates and exits are higher up.

From Bab Bou Jeloud, in the west, two main streets run down to this heart:

• Talaa Kebira, the “big climb”, the longest, lined with stalls, the Bou Inania Madrasa and many craftsmen;
• Talaa Seghira, the “small climb”, running parallel and a little quieter.

They meet in the souk district, around the shrine of Moulay Idriss II and Al-Quaraouiyine. Across the river to the east lies the Andalusian quarter, more residential, with its great mosque. Rcif square links the two banks at the edge of the valley.

The main gates

• Bab Bou Jeloud: the Blue Gate, in the west, the best-known entrance, with taxis and cafés.
• Batha: right next to Bab Bou Jeloud, with car access and parking.
• Bab Guissa: in the north, at the top of the medina, near the large hotels with views.
• Rcif: in the east, a large square that taxis can reach, closest to the heart of the medina.
• Bab Ftouh: in the south-east, on the Andalusian side, towards the potters’ quarter.

Choosing accommodation near one of these gates makes arriving and getting around much easier; see our guide on where to stay in Fes.

How to find your way

• Going down takes you to the centre; going up takes you to the exits. This rule works almost everywhere.
• Follow the flow: the busiest lanes usually lead to the main streets.
• Learn a few squares and monuments: Seffarine, Nejjarine, Rcif, Bou Inania. A few signs point to the main sights and gates.
• Do not rely too much on GPS: between high walls and two-metre-wide lanes, your location often jumps around. An offline map helps with general orientation, not with every turn.
• Ask shopkeepers sitting in their shops; avoid following people who spontaneously offer to guide you.

Neighbourhoods and their atmosphere

• Talaa and Bou Jeloud: bustle, cafés, butchers, sellers of nougat and dried fruit; ideal for a feel of daily life.
• Attarine and Al-Quaraouiyine: the spiritual and scholarly heart, the finest monuments and the spice souk.
• Seffarine: the coppersmiths’ square and one of the oldest madrasas in the city.
• Chouara: the tanneries and the leather shops.
• Rcif: the food market, the dyers’ souk and taxi access.
• The Andalusian quarter: quieter and residential, for a medina without tourists.

The rhythm of the day

Morning is the best time: soft light, craftsmen at work, moderate crowds. Around midday, especially in summer, the heat calls for a break. Late afternoon is very lively, then the medina calms down at nightfall as the stalls close. On Fridays many shops close, at least around the main midday prayer.

Should you hire a guide?

On a first visit, a licensed guide for half a day is an excellent investment: they tell the story of each place, take you into workshops and teach you how to find your way. Official guides are licensed and carry a badge; ask your riad to book one, saying whether you would rather skip the shops. For the rest of your stay, explore on your own. Our tips for avoiding fake guides are in is Fes safe?.

Etiquette in the lanes

• When you hear balak!, step aside: a donkey, a mule or a handcart is coming.
• Do not block narrow passages to take photos, and ask before photographing anyone.
• Active mosques and shrines are open to Muslims only; the historic madrasas can be visited.
• Clothing that covers shoulders and knees is appreciated; our Fes travel tips cover local etiquette in more detail.

Three easy walks from Rcif

These routes start from Rcif square, five minutes from our riad.

1. The heart of the medina: Rcif, Seffarine square, Al-Quaraouiyine, the Al-Attarine Madrasa, then the Chouara tanneries. Two to three hours including visits. See the madrasas and monuments of Fes and the Fes tanneries.
2. The climb to Bab Bou Jeloud: from the Attarine district, walk up Talaa Kebira to the Bou Inania Madrasa and the Blue Gate. An hour and a half at a stroll, then a taxi back along the outer road.
3. The Andalusian bank: cross to the Andalusian Mosque, then continue towards Bab Ftouh for a calmer, residential medina.

For complete plans, follow one day in Fes or our three-day itinerary. And to see the medina from above, read the best views in Fes.

The medina from La Petite Maison

Our riad sits at the heart of this geography, five minutes from Rcif square and a few steps from Seffarine. When you arrive, we sketch you a map in a notebook with easy routes, and we book a licensed guide if you would like one. Discover the riad and our rooms, or write to us to plan your walks.