Where to Stay in Fes: Best Areas, Riads & Hotels (Complete Guide)

Choosing where to stay matters more in Fes than in almost any other Moroccan city. The old town, Fes el-Bali, is a car-free maze of some nine thousand lanes; the new town, built in the twentieth century, is a grid of avenues, traffic and modern hotels. Sleep in one and you experience a completely different city from the other. This is what we tell travellers who write to us before booking, from our riad a five-minute walk from Rcif square.

The short answer: where to stay in Fes on a first visit

For a first stay of two to four nights, stay inside the Fes el-Bali medina, in a riad close to a gate that cars can reach. You wake up among the monuments, walk everywhere, and can head back for a quiet rest in the early afternoon, which makes a real difference in summer. Being near a taxi-accessible gate (Rcif, Bab Bou Jeloud, Batha, Bab Guissa) solves the only real drawback of the medina: arriving with luggage.

The new town mainly makes sense if you are driving, need a lift or a pool, or are only spending one night between two stops.

Fes el-Bali, the medina: the heart of the city

A UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981, the medina holds almost everything people come to Fes for: Al-Quaraouiyine university, the Marinid madrasas, the tanneries and the artisans’ souks. Staying here means hearing the call to prayer from your room and smelling fresh bread in the lanes each morning. To understand how to find your way around, read our Fes medina guide.

The medina is not one uniform block, though. Three areas work particularly well for a stay.

Rcif and the Andalusian side

On the east side, Rcif square is one of the main medina entrances that taxis can reach. From there you walk in a few minutes to the dyers’ souk, the coppersmiths of Seffarine square, Al-Quaraouiyine and the Chouara tanneries. The area is lively by day and quiet again in the evening once the stalls close. This is where we opened La Petite Maison, and it is the compromise we recommend most often: central, authentic and easy to reach.

Bab Bou Jeloud, Talaa and Batha

On the west side, the famous Blue Gate opens onto the two main shopping streets, Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira. It is the busiest part of the medina, full of cafés and small restaurants, but also where touts are most persistent. The neighbouring Batha area, near the museum of the same name, offers convenient car access and a little more calm.

The northern edge: Bab Guissa and Ziat

On the northern slopes, a few large houses and hotels enjoy sweeping views over the old city. It is calmer and more residential, but hillier and further from the main sights: allow fifteen to twenty minutes on foot to walk down to Al-Quaraouiyine.

Fes el-Jdid and the Mellah: the quieter middle ground

Founded by the Marinids in the thirteenth century, Fes el-Jdid is home to the Royal Palace with its golden doors and to the old Jewish quarter, the Mellah. There are a few guesthouses and small hotels here, in a more open and less touristy setting. It is a good choice for a second visit, but you will need a taxi to reach the heart of Fes el-Bali. To explore the area, see our article on Fes el-Jdid, the Mellah and the Royal Palace.

The Ville Nouvelle: hotels, pools and parking

Around Avenue Hassan II and Avenue Mohammed V, the new town has the big chain hotels, international restaurants and the railway station. Rooms are standardised, often with a pool and parking, but you are ten to fifteen minutes by taxi from the medina, in the atmosphere of a modern city. It is convenient for road-trippers and business travel, much less so for experiencing Fes.

Riad, hotel or guesthouse?

In the medina, the typical place to stay is a riad: an old house built around an inner courtyard, with only a few rooms and a personal welcome. If the word is new to you, start with what is a riad. To weigh the pros and cons against a conventional hotel, we wrote a whole article on riad vs hotel in Fes.

Our view fits in one sentence: if you are coming for the medina, stay in the medina. And if you like places on a human scale, a small boutique riad offers something no large hotel can reproduce.

Where to stay in Fes for your travel style

• First trip, culture and photography: a riad in Fes el-Bali, near Rcif or Batha, so you can do everything on foot.
• Couples: a riad with a rooftop terrace and only a few rooms; see our ideas for a romantic getaway in Fes.
• Families: a suite or two adjoining rooms in a riad without too many stairs; read Fes with kids and take a look at our Essaouira Suite.
• Winter travellers: a heated riad with an indoor lounge and warm blankets; see Fes in winter.
• Driving: accommodation near a gate with guarded parking, or the new town if you would rather keep the car close.

What to check before you book

Before you choose, ask a few simple questions. How many minutes is the nearest gate on foot? Are the airport transfer and a porter arranged? Do rooms have a private bathroom, air conditioning and heating? Is breakfast included? Is there a terrace? Our full checklist is in how to choose a riad in Fes, and we explain why it often pays to book your riad direct.

Planning the rest of your stay

Once you have chosen where to stay, the rest falls into place. For your arrival, read our guide to getting from Fes airport to the medina and, if you are coming by train or from another city, how to get to Fes. For the season, see the best time to visit Fes. Our Fes travel tips cover money, dress and tipping, and is Fes safe? answers the usual safety questions. For budgeting, see how much a trip to Fes costs; if you are coming in July or August, read Fes in summer; and for your first night, staying in a riad: what to expect, not forgetting the Moroccan breakfast. Finally, to fill your days, start with things to do in Fes or follow our three-day itinerary.

Why we chose Rcif for La Petite Maison

We wanted a quiet house that was still close to everything. Rcif square is five minutes from the riad: that is where our driver drops you off and a porter takes your bags. The main medina sights are all within walking distance, and in the evening the house falls silent again around its courtyard. Our rooms, in tadelakt and zellige, each have a private bathroom, air conditioning and heating, and a homemade Moroccan breakfast is served on the terrace or in the courtyard. Browse our rooms and suite, read the story of the riad or get in touch to check availability: we are happy to answer any question, even ones that have nothing to do with a booking.