Fes el-Jdid, the Mellah and the Royal Palace: A Visitor’s Guide

It is often overlooked, but Fes is not just its old medina. A few minutes from Fes el-Bali, Fes el-Jdid, “New Fes”, was founded in the thirteenth century by the Marinids to house their palace, their administration and their guard. Today it brings together the monumental doors of the Royal Palace, the old Jewish quarter of the Mellah, restored synagogues and beautiful gardens. Half a day is enough to discover it, in a more open and less touristy atmosphere than the medina. For other sights, see things to do in Fes.

Fes el-Jdid, the royal city of the Marinids

In 1276 the Marinid sultan Abu Yusuf Yaqub decided to build a fortified royal city away from the old town. Fes el-Jdid became the seat of power, with its palace, barracks, gardens and mosques. Over the centuries the city grew, but it kept the character of a palace city, with wide esplanades, high walls and grand gates.

The Royal Palace and its golden doors

The Royal Palace, or Dar el-Makhzen, covers a vast area at the heart of Fes el-Jdid. It is not open to the public, but its main facade on Place des Alaouites is one of the most photographed sights in Morocco. Its monumental gilded brass doors, chased with geometric patterns, are framed by zellige and topped with carved cedar canopies. In the morning, when the sun hits the brass, they literally shine. Keep your distance from the guards and do not photograph the soldiers.

The Mellah: the old Jewish quarter

Right next to the palace lies the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter, created in the fifteenth century to place the community under the sultan’s direct protection. It was the first mellah in Morocco, and the word has since been used for Jewish quarters throughout the country; it is thought to come from the Arabic melh, salt. For centuries the Jewish community of Fes, partly descended from exiles from Spain, played an important role in the city’s trade, crafts and intellectual life. Most of its members emigrated in the twentieth century, but the quarter keeps the memory of this history alive.

Walking through the Mellah

The first thing that strikes you is the architecture. Unlike medina houses, which look inward, the houses of the Mellah open onto the street with windows and carved, sometimes painted, wooden balconies. The main street, the Grand Rue des Mérinides, is lined with jewellers, tailors and small shops. Look up and you can sense the faded elegance of these facades.

The Ibn Danan synagogue and other synagogues

The Ibn Danan synagogue, built in the seventeenth century and restored at the end of the twentieth, is one of the best preserved in Morocco. Inside you find the prayer hall with its ark, wooden benches and chandeliers, and a ritual bath in the basement. Nearby, the Slat al-Fassiyine synagogue, also from the seventeenth century, has been restored too. A contribution is usually requested at the entrance, and respectful dress is expected.

The Jewish cemetery

On the edge of the Mellah, the Jewish cemetery is striking, with hundreds of whitewashed tombs lined up on a slope facing the city. Some are places of pilgrimage, such as that of Solica, a nineteenth-century young woman revered for her courage. An old synagogue houses a small museum. It is a place of remembrance, so walk through it discreetly.

Bab Semmarine and the Grand Rue of Fes el-Jdid

At the end of the Mellah, the monumental Bab Semmarine gate opens onto the Grand Rue of Fes el-Jdid, a busy and very local shopping street lined with stalls selling fabric, shoes and household goods. It is a good chance to see everyday Fes, far from the tourist trail.

The Jnan Sbil gardens and the walk back to the medina

To return to Fes el-Bali, cross the Jnan Sbil gardens, restored a few years ago, with their ponds, paths and tall trees. Beyond them, the old mechouar and its monumental gates lead to Bab Bou Jeloud in about fifteen minutes on foot. Families particularly enjoy this green break; see also Fes with kids.

Practical information

• Getting there: on foot from Bab Bou Jeloud via Jnan Sbil in a quarter of an hour, or by petit taxi from Rcif in about ten minutes.
• When to go: in the morning, for the light on the palace doors and the synagogues’ opening hours. Synagogues are generally closed on Saturdays, the Sabbath.
• With or without a guide: a licensed guide adds a great deal to understanding the history of the Jewish community of Fes.
• Dress: shoulders and knees covered, especially in the synagogues and the cemetery.

A half-day route

The Royal Palace doors on Place des Alaouites, the Mellah and the Grand Rue des Mérinides, the Ibn Danan synagogue, the Jewish cemetery, Bab Semmarine, then back through the Jnan Sbil gardens to Bab Bou Jeloud. It is the second morning of our three-day Fes itinerary, and the first thing to add if you stay two days, as we suggest in one day in Fes (or two). For the old city, see our Fes medina guide.

Fes el-Jdid from La Petite Maison

From Rcif square, five minutes from our riad, a petit taxi drops you in front of the Royal Palace doors in about ten minutes; you can walk back via Jnan Sbil and Bab Bou Jeloud. If you are unsure which area to stay in, our guide on where to stay in Fes compares Fes el-Jdid and the medina. Browse our rooms and write to us to arrange your visit with a licensed guide.