Discovering Fes
Is Fes Worth Visiting? 12 Reasons to Go (and Who May Not Love It)
A thousand-year-old medina, master craftsmen, refined food and characterful riads: 12 honest reasons to put Fes on your itinerary, and what to know before you go.
5 min read
When planning a trip to Morocco, Marrakech is usually the obvious first choice. Fes raises a question instead: is it really worth visiting? We live here and host travellers from all over the world, so we have an opinion, but we will try to answer honestly, including who may enjoy it less. Here are twelve reasons to visit Fes. For the list of must-sees, see things to do in Fes.
1. The largest car-free medina in the world
Fes el-Bali is a maze of some nine thousand lanes where no cars circulate. You pass laden donkeys, craftsmen and children heading to Quranic school: a medieval city that is not a museum but a living neighbourhood. Our Fes medina guide will help you find your way.
2. More than twelve centuries of history
Founded at the end of the eighth century, Fes is the oldest of Morocco’s imperial cities. It has been the capital several times and is still regarded as the spiritual and intellectual heart of the country. Its medina has been a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1981.
3. Al-Quaraouiyine, one of the world’s oldest seats of learning
Founded in 859 by a woman, Fatima al-Fihri, Al-Quaraouiyine is regarded as one of the oldest continuously operating places of learning. It gives Fes a special aura: that of a city of scholars.
4. Some of the finest madrasas in the Islamic world
Bou Inania and Al-Attarine are true jewel boxes of zellige, carved stucco and sculpted cedar. Few places in Morocco offer such a concentration of Marinid art; all the details are in the madrasas and monuments of Fes.
5. The tanneries, an unforgettable sight
The coloured pits of Chouara, where leather is worked as in the Middle Ages, remain one of the most striking sights in the country. Our tips for seeing them without pressure are in the Fes tanneries.
6. Crafts made in front of you
In Fes, much of what is sold is made locally: coppersmiths, weavers, potters, zellige cutters and embroiderers. Watching them work is an experience in itself; see Fes crafts and artisan workshops.
7. Morocco’s culinary capital
Pastilla, sweet-and-savoury tajines, early-morning bissara and honey pastries: Fassi cuisine is said to be the most refined in the country. Our article on what to eat in Fes will make your mouth water.
8. Fewer crowds than Marrakech
Fes receives far fewer visitors than Marrakech. It feels more authentic, with a medina that lives for its residents. For a detailed comparison, read Fes or Marrakech.
9. Characterful riads at gentle prices
Fes has many carefully restored riads, often more affordable than in Marrakech for the same level of charm. Sleeping in a courtyard house in the heart of the medina is part of the experience; see where to stay in Fes.
10. Magical sunsets
From the Marinid tombs or a rooftop terrace, watching the medina turn from ochre to pink while the calls to prayer answer each other is a moment you never forget.
11. A perfect base for northern Morocco
Volubilis, Meknes, Moulay Idriss, the cedars of the Middle Atlas, the blue town of Chefchaouen and the road to the desert are all easy to reach from Fes. See day trips from Fes and Fes to Chefchaouen.
12. Easy to reach from Europe and North America
Fes–Saïss airport has direct flights to many European cities, and travellers from the United States and Canada can reach Fes from Casablanca in a few hours by train.
Who may not love Fes
To be honest, Fes is not for everyone. It will appeal less if you want beaches, lively nightlife, big hotels with pools or step-free access. The lanes can be crowded and fake guides can be irritating on a first visit; our tips for dealing with them are in is Fes safe?. Finally, Fes rewards patience: it reveals itself when you take your time, not at a sprint.
How many days should you stay?
Two days cover the essentials, but three days is ideal to enjoy the medina at a human pace and add a day trip. Follow our three-day Fes itinerary, and pick your season with the best time to visit Fes.
Our verdict
Yes, Fes is well worth visiting, as long as you give it time and choose a good base in the heart of the medina. For many travellers it becomes the strongest memory of their trip to Morocco.
Discovering Fes from La Petite Maison
Our small riad is a five-minute walk from Rcif square, close to Al-Quaraouiyine, Seffarine square and the tanneries. We help you plan your visits, book licensed guides and welcome you back in the evening on the terrace. Browse our rooms, discover the riad and write to us to plan your stay.
Frequently asked questions
Is Fes worth visiting?
Yes. Its thousand-year-old medina, madrasas, tanneries, crafts and food make it one of Morocco’s most fascinating cities, as long as you give it at least two or three days.
How many days do you need in Fes?
Two days for the essentials of the medina, three days to enjoy it at a comfortable pace and add a day trip to Volubilis, Meknes or Chefchaouen.
Is Fes better than Marrakech?
They are different experiences. Fes is more authentic, more historic and less touristy; Marrakech is livelier, with more gardens, luxury hotels and nightlife. Ideally, combine both.
Who might not enjoy Fes?
Travellers looking for beaches, nightlife, big hotels with pools or step-free access, and those who only have a few hours.
