Shopping in the Fes Souks: What to Buy and How to Bargain

The souks of Fes are among the most authentic in Morocco. Much of what is sold here is made on the spot, in medina workshops, by craftsmen who carry on centuries-old skills. Shopping in Fes is therefore also a way of meeting the city’s trades. Here is where to look, what to bring home, how to bargain and how to avoid disappointment. For the other must-sees, see things to do in Fes.

The souks of Fes, organised by trade

As in other medieval cities, each guild long had its own street or square, and this layout is still visible:

• Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira: the two main streets, selling a bit of everything.
• The Attarine souk: spices, perfumes and traditional cosmetics, near the madrasa of the same name.
• The henna souk: a small shady square selling henna, cosmetics and pottery.
• Seffarine square: coppersmiths, cauldrons, trays and copper and brass lanterns.
• The dyers’ souk: coloured skeins of wool and silk, near Rcif.
• Chouara: leather, around the tanneries; see the Fes tanneries.
• Nejjarine: carpenters and cabinetmakers, around the wood museum.
• The kissaria: fabrics, kaftans, djellabas and trimmings, near Al-Quaraouiyine.

Our Fes medina guide will help you place these areas. To watch the craftsmen at work, read Fes crafts and artisan workshops.

What to buy in Fes

Pottery and ceramics

Fes blue is famous: plates, bowls and vases hand-painted with geometric and floral patterns in cobalt blue on white. You will also find decorative tajines, polychrome pieces and zellige tables. To watch potters and zellige cutters at work, head to the potters’ quarter outside Bab Ftouh.

Leather

Babouche slippers, bags, belts, wallets and poufs are sold everywhere around the tanneries and along the main streets. Smell the leather, check the stitching and do not necessarily buy in the first shop.

Copper and brass

Pierced lanterns, engraved trays, teapots and mirrors: Seffarine square and its surroundings are the best place to choose them, often straight from the craftsman.

Textiles

Wool blankets, scarves, brocades, kaftans, djellabas and embroidered cushions. Fes embroidery, very fine and worked in counted stitch, is a speciality of the city. Be wary of “cactus silk”: it is usually viscose, beautifully dyed but unrelated to cactus.

Rugs and carpets

Fes is not a rug-weaving region itself, but you will find rugs from the Middle Atlas and other parts of Morocco. It is a big purchase: take your time, look at the back and the regularity of the knots, and ask whether the wool is natural.

Wood, cosmetics and flavours

Cedar or thuya boxes, black soap, ghassoul clay, rose water and argan oil, as well as spices, dates, almonds and amlou: enough to extend the trip at home. For argan oil, choose clearly labelled cooperative products. If you love spices, a cooking class in Fes will teach you how to use them, and the black soap will remind you of the hammam in Fes.

How to bargain with a smile

In the souks prices are negotiable, and haggling is a conversation rather than a confrontation. A few rules:

• Only bargain if you really want to buy: starting a negotiation and walking away for no reason is frowned upon.
• Ask the price, then offer noticeably less, without being insulting; the seller will come back with a counter-offer.
• Take your time: an offered tea does not commit you to anything.
• Stay smiling and polite; humour helps a lot.
• Be ready to walk away if the price does not suit you: “thank you, I will think about it” is perfectly acceptable.
• Pay in cash: you will often get a better price, and many stalls do not take cards. Our Fes travel tips explain how to get dirhams.

Fixed prices and commissions

If haggling makes you uncomfortable, the Ensemble Artisanal in the new town sells crafts at fixed prices, a good way to get a sense of prices before heading into the souks. Be aware too that when a guide or a companion takes you into a shop, a commission is often included in the price. Tell your guide if you do not want to go shopping. Our tips for avoiding fake guides are in is Fes safe?.

Shipping your purchases

Many rug, ceramic and lighting shops offer international shipping. Ask for a written receipt detailing the item, price, shipping costs and delivery time, and check the customs duties in your country. For small fragile items, careful wrapping in checked luggage is often enough.

When to shop

Late morning and afternoon are the best times, when all the stalls are open. On Fridays many close around the midday prayer. During Ramadan the souks come alive mainly in the late afternoon and after the fast is broken.

Shopping and crafts from La Petite Maison

Our riad is five minutes from Rcif square, between the dyers’ souk and Seffarine square: ideal for shopping on foot and dropping off your parcels between walks. The house itself is a tribute to the crafts of Fes, zellige, tadelakt, cedar and brass, as we explain in what is a riad. Read our story and browse our rooms, or write to us: we will happily point you to our favourite craftsmen.