Hammam in Fes: The Ritual, Local Bathhouses and Spas

The hammam has been part of Moroccan daily life for centuries. In Fes, every medina neighbourhood had its own, alongside the mosque, the bread oven, the fountain and the Quranic school. For a traveller, it is one of the most authentic and relaxing experiences of a stay, especially after a day of walking in the lanes. Here is how the ritual works, how to choose between a local bathhouse and a spa, and a few rules of etiquette. For other experiences, see things to do in Fes.

The hammam, a medina institution

The hammam is a steam bath inherited from the baths of antiquity and adapted to the purification requirements of Islam. People go every week, often on Thursday or before a festival, to wash, relax and catch up with neighbours. Women sometimes spend whole afternoons there, between treatments and conversation. The water is heated by a furnace fed with wood or sawdust, which sometimes also heats the neighbourhood oven.

Some of the hammams in Fes are very old. The Seffarine hammam, near the coppersmiths’ square, dates from the Marinid period; recently restored, it beautifully illustrates the architecture of medieval baths, with domes pierced by small star-shaped openings that let light filter through the steam.

How a hammam works

A traditional hammam usually has three rooms, each hotter than the last:

1. The cool room, or changing room, where you undress and rest at the end.
2. The warm room, where your body gets used to the heat.
3. The hot room, the steamiest, where the heat opens the pores.

The ritual then follows several steps:

• steam: you settle into the heat for about ten minutes to relax;
• black soap: an olive-oil-based paste applied all over the body and left for a few minutes;
• the scrub: with the kessa glove, made of rough fabric, the skin is vigorously exfoliated and comes out astonishingly soft;
• rinsing with hot then warm water, poured from buckets;
• ghassoul: a mineral clay from the Middle Atlas, applied as a mask on the body and hair;
• rest, often with a glass of mint tea.

Local bathhouse or spa hammam?

The local bathhouse

This is the most authentic and least expensive experience. Men and women go at different times or use separate sections. You bring your own things, and you can ask an attendant to give you a scrub for a small fee. The atmosphere is lively, friendly and very local, but explanations are rare: for a first time, it helps to go with someone who knows the customs.

The spa hammam

In spas, riads and hotels, the hammam is private or shared with only a few people, in a more polished setting. Everything is provided, one person looks after you from start to finish, and the treatment can be extended with a wrap, an argan oil massage and a rest. It costs more but is ideal for a first experience or for a moment together; we mention it in our article on a romantic getaway in Fes.

Hammam etiquette

• In a local bathhouse you do not go fully naked: men keep shorts or swimwear on, women usually keep their bottoms on.
• Respect the times reserved for men and for women.
• Avoid wasting water and rinse your spot before leaving.
• Tip the person who gave you your scrub; our Fes travel tips give some guidance on tipping.

What to bring

For a local bathhouse: a towel, sandals, swimwear or shorts, black soap, a kessa glove, shampoo, a comb and clean clothes. Black soap, the glove and ghassoul are easy to buy in the souks, especially around the henna souk; see shopping in the Fes souks. In a spa, everything is provided.

Health and comfort tips

• Avoid the hammam right after a heavy meal.
• Drink water before and afterwards.
• Allow an hour to an hour and a half for a full ritual, and do not plan anything strenuous afterwards.
• If you are pregnant or have heart or blood-pressure problems, ask your doctor before you travel.

The hammam in every season

In winter the hammam is pure bliss for warming up after a chilly day, as we describe in Fes in winter. In summer, choose an air-conditioned spa and a shorter treatment. The hammam also fits naturally into our three-day Fes itinerary, at the end of day two.

A hammam from La Petite Maison

Our riad is five minutes from Rcif square, not far from Seffarine square. We help you choose between a local bathhouse and a spa depending on what you are after, and explain the customs for a first visit. Afterwards, the terrace and the courtyard are waiting for you to prolong the relaxation. Discover the riad and our rooms, and write to us to plan your stay.